Archive for April, 2004
Barton Results
Got it sucessfully overclocked to 2057Mhz @ 187Mhz FSB w/ memory running asynchronously (XP3050+?). It was doing 2200Mhz (200Mhz FSB) at low temps (116°F) but it just wouldn’t run. Maybe it’s the memory timing. Right now 187 is the highest I can run the memory at the most aggressive setting, 7T vs 8T at 188Mhz and above. Damn thing runs cooler than my old Celeron 950. Temps never go above 114°F even with a distributed computing client running in the background at 100%. Good stuff. Alpha heatsink works like a champ. The Panaflow fans are damn quiet too.
It’s Done!
Installation is the reverse of removal. Ha! right! Try putting the subframe in without a helpful neighbor. Damn thing can really not want to line up. Getting the engine mounts to line up can be a bitch. Swaybar bushings can too, but thankfully I had Vise-Grips. Next time need 16mm wrench for swaybar links. Car seems okay now. Less darty, but could be due to more than just installing the bushing bracket correctly. New AVS’s all around with stiffer walls and smaller diameter may be helping too. We’ll see how the alignment goes at Eurosport Automotive — yeah, I balked at paying $120 at Autoscope vs. $79 at Eurosport. That place wanted $85 to press bushings in. Eurosport took $50 from my wallet instead. Still pricy. Damn.
Should I get road hazard protection on the tires?
Subframe Update
Control arm ball joints finally came out. Trick: Bang on it 4ever. Plus lube with PB Blaster. It’ll come out eventually. Did I mention I hate removing this ball joint???
Steering rack removal wasn’t too bad.
Engine mounts weren’t bad.
Subframe bolts not difficult.
Subframe is now out of the car. Yesss!!!
Thanks to SK for coming out to provide moral support (and hardware organization)! And thanks to John for letting me borrow the engine jack. We’ll see how good it is if my engine is still suspended tomorrow :-p
Let Me Clear My Throat
Weekend Breakdown:
- Went to Autoscope for alignment. instead found out front subframe has a hairline crack. also found out control arm bushing brackets i installed two summers ago was put in backwards.
- A guitar concert — stuffy british guy. thanks will!
- R&R’d shihab’s ITR brakes. took two days. two hurdles: rotor locator screws/bolts, incompressible rear piston. solutions: drilling and chiseling. (chiseling works better.) use web, found out due to integrated disc parking brake, piston screws in clockwise to retract. (just remember to pump the brake pedal before complaining about too much parking brake handle travel.)
- Decided I didn’t want to miss next sunday’s autocross due to sick car.
So this week:
- Order lots of car parts. A lot of two day and 3 day shipping. Slaps meself.
- Monday: disconnect swaybar. remove control arm bushing bracket from chassis
- Tuesday: Bought more chains and D-rings for engine jack, MagLite Xenon Bulb — lots brighter btw, rented 3 arm fixed puller ($80 deposit — ouch!). Figuring out how to remove bushing bracket from control arm (and actually doing so), priceless. The technique:
- Use puller to stretch bushing out to cracking point. Snip/cut at bushing while lubing with PB Blaster.
- Wriggle for a long time.
- Bust out propane torch and heat metal/burn rubber. Blow out flames while torching. Watch out for burning other stuff.
- Repeat until rubber breaks completely from control arm and all that is left is the metal/rubber sleeve.
- Now take puller and easily remove the rest. (Since the puller can now pull directly on the metal sleeve.
- Repeat for other side.
Voila!
